6.5km immersion in breathtaking scenery ~ Greve, Chianti. A good stroll, picnic, castle views (and a discrete repurposed WWII POW camp??)
A tranquil walk through the immaculate rolling hills and thick woodland of Greve in Chianti in the week of the porcini. Should have brought a foraging basket! It's impossible not to enjoy the breathtaking Tuscan scenery at its best with this gentle 6.5km trail of country lanes and woodland footpaths. Sauntering past working farms, a hunting tower, exquisite castle grounds and a goat's cheese farm/shop, amongst other rural attractions. So much to discover in this one stroll alone!
Tidy views of fruitless grapevine ☑, lines of olive tress ☑, rows of cypress trees ☑, hilltop monastery ☑, exquisite farmland ☑, pretty much the lot!
The end of season vineyards all harvested and turning autumnal before wintery frosts take hold. The crisp scent of pine trees evoking a magical, Christmassy vibe, and ethereal scattered stones on the forest floor hint of fallen ancient structures, or the rather less romantic 'quarried waste'.
Back to the route: the easy uphill start is a good warm up and not too taxing. Once at the summit, roughly 1.5km in, a gentle plateau and then descent follows. This takes you through dense woodland and eventually past an old hunting tower towards the stunning Castello di Verrazzano castle & winery (renowned for its late Romanesque tower, vineyards, and production of Chianti Classico wine) https://www.verrazzano.com/. See more details below.
Gardens and outdoor areas: Dogs are welcome, generally on a leash.
Wine tastings: Leashed dogs are reportedly welcome
Lunch and dining: Dogs are reportedly permitted to accompany guests.
Wine cellar tours: The castle's official policy allows only small dogs that can be carried in your arms. Larger dogs are not permitted inside the cellars.
Overnight accommodations: Pets are allowed upon request, potentially with an additional charge.
⚜️ My recommendation: If you're bringing a medium or large dog, contact the castle before booking a wine tour or lunch.
The noble (derelict?) hunting tower is tucked away in the hillside, in somewhat unkempt grounds. Its neighbouring olive trees are tended to by the raccoglitore di olive (olive picker) or olivicoltore (olive grower/worker). This time in October brings the gruelling work of harvesting the olives and then sending batches off to be cold-pressed into extra virgin olive oil. A wealth of health benefits for consumers, and hopefully healthy profits for the farmers too.
For the days where sighting your hunting prey was part of the ritual, and maybe used as a fortified defensive bastion and lookout spot to protect clans from rival families during periods of intense political rivalry and feuding. Hopefully today's civil unrest can be stopped from expanding to Greve, Chianti!
In the meantime, I would like to know who put the rose plant on the grape plantation as per the photgraph below? Maybe there is a story behind this and I will try and find out why next time we visit. "The Meaning of the Rose" will be the sequel ~ hope it's a happy tale to share.
All over there are the usual authoritative signs detailing hunting restrictions, but sadly (dependent on your view), the warning is not taken seriously at all. Poacher gun shots are distinctly audible in the far distance. Wild boar, deer, venison, game, rabbit ~ all for the unlawful taking by those not wearing the official hunting florescent orange, as required with the licence. Thankfully, they were not near enough to spook us, though a trumpet may accompany our next walk there. 🎺
Menhirs and other enormous stones standing solitary in far corners, lording over the well tended fields and groves. No idea why they are there!
Half way through the walk and it's time to relax at a purpose-made picnic bench near a large memorial.
Another treat awaits us next time (if we organise it). The goats cheese tasting at a local farm en route.
They are hosting a tasting and goat petting day on October 24th at midday. 🐐
On the way back I am almost certain this was a military barracks, or a POW camp for WWII, because the layout, discrete location, the signs and the whole damn energy of the place suggests it was more than cow barns back in the day. Besides, there are no cows in the area, not for miles. But I remain open to criticism if my fervent imagination is running wild. But the level of activity in Greve in WWII was substantial and the Nazi occupation devastating for locals, who remain sensitive to the fact.
The Florence State Archives documents civilian internment in Greve in 1942, while the municipality records German occupation, forced labour deportations and wartime violence in the surrounding countryside in 1944. These confirm the area's wartime history, but they do not establish that this particular farm was a POW camp.
Here is how to ride as a tourist in the area.
Shrooms... We saw people picking mushrooms but figured taking a photo might be a bit cheeky, so didn't. Porcini (Boletus edulis) are currently in their peak season in Greve in Chianti, with harvests typically reaching their highest quality and abundance from mid-September through October.
The current harvest is driven by the autumn rains and cooler temperatures, which are ideal for this species to grow in the region's chestnut and oak forests.
On the home run, last little push uphill.
Soul-enriching stroll in working Tuscan farmland, è assolutamente bellisima! Hope you enjoyed the article and that you get to enjoy this charming stroll sometime soon.
