Santa Croce's famous Christmas market and Basilica, 'DEATH tourism' & a psychedelic mission 🍄 🍄 🍄

The market called “Weihnachtsmarkt” takes place in Piazza Santa Croce, right in front of the magnificent Basilica di Santa Croce, which according to walking tours of Florence “crimes, murders & ghosts”, is a place renowned for restless spirits! The church is also known as the Pantheon of Florence with many of Italy’s most famous figures being buried there, namely Michelangelo, Galileo, Rossini, Alfieri and other greats. In fact the “Libro delle Catene” (Chain Book) under the church, is said to bind the souls of the damned.

The souls of Florence's greatest watch over mercatino activities unbeknownst to distracted Christmas marketgoers

The grand basilica where the market stands is decorated by stone carvers, goldsmiths, painters, frescoists, and Renaissance masters, which is the perfect location for modern-day festive artisanal craft stalls, selling seasonal goodies. Plus, lots of live performances, makes it a truly magical place for all ages to enjoy. Not to mention the bratwurst, pretzels, strudel, kürtőskalács (chimney cake), mulled wine... Mainly German and Austrian produce, but with a Guinness stall too! 🍺

Mary Shelley an English novelist (who wrote the novel Frankstein amongst others), lived in Florence between 1818 - 1823, famously said that Santa Croce carried: “A solemn peace, as though greatness, once finished with the world, kept watch over the living.” Suggesting that the boundary between this world and the next weakens, with Florence, already full for its prominent dead, may have their souls walking amongst the market stalls, these unseen spirits gathering at the Basilica (as they did centuries ago), leaving visitors feeling watched while they browse the aisles! Wooooo.

Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley (neé Godwin; 30 August 1797 – 1 February 1851) was an English novelist who wrote the Gothic novel Frankenstein; or, The Modern Prometheus (1818), which is considered an early example of science fiction

In 1817, the French writer Stendhal (Marie-Henri Beyle) visited Santa Croce and was so overcome by the splendour of its monuments and tombs that he felt his heart race, grew dizzy, and nearly fainted. His powerful emotional reaction later inspired the term Stendhal Syndrome, describing the overwhelming physical and psychological response some visitors experience when confronted with intense beauty. Could this be all the present souls he met, without knowing?! Henry James (1873) the American novelist claimed that, walking among the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and others was like stepping into the heart of Florentine genius. ⛪

Marie-Henri Beyle (French Writer: 23 January 1783 – 23 March 1842), better known by his pseudonym, Stendhal

“I was in a sort of ecstasy... absorbed in the contemplation of sublime beauty” Santa Croce is literally the birthplace of a psychological condition ~ "Stendhal Syndrome"

This busy and bustling market is also recognised as an increasingly popular venue according to the La Poesia e lo Spirito blog, popolata da presenze ~ meaning that it is populated by ghostly presences 👻 The pleasing aesthetic of sacred architecture and old stones is described as a “waiting room” for something beyond the physical world. Step into Dante's inferno..?! For sure I died and went to heaven when stuffing the hot apple strudel from an Austrian Baker's stall last night, a fleeting foodgasm indeed.

https://www.freetour.com/florence/the-dark-side-of-florence-tour-mysteries-legends

Here's a dark story about Santa Croce's Basilica (the stunning architectural backdrop to the market) ...

Beware of falling stone.

While major incidents are rare, it is prudent to be cautious in Florence, just as you would in any old city, due to the risk of debris falling from historic buildings. Avoid walking directly under scaffolding or areas with signs of potential disrepair, especially older buildings. In 2017, a 52-year-old Spanish tourist named Daniel Testor Schnell was killed inside the Santa Croce Basilica when a large stone fragment “peduccio” fell from about 20–30 meters, directly on to his head. The tragic incident prompted an investigation for involuntary manslaughter “omicidio colposo” and building health & safety procedures have followed.

In 2023, the victim’s family was awarded over two million euros after prosecutors argued that better structural checks could have prevented the accident. The tragedy became linked to the idea of “death tourism,” where visitors drawn by Santa Croce’s history and beauty and even the festive Christmas market may also face risk from the very monuments they admire. Read the ABC News Article

🌟🎄🍷 On to much cheerier things now! 🦌 🛷 ⭐

Tonnes of Stollen cakes for sale from the baker's very welcoming stall

Mozart chocolates are a necessary under-tree addition from the sweets & cakes stall

For most visitors the market offers a sensory escape with the scents of mulled wine, steaming cups of cider (and Glühwein), grilled meats amid the warm glow of lights on wooden huts, the chatter of different languages in a piazza that’s very, very historic. The mix of cultures and colours enhance the Christmassy vibe, and brightly coloured fly agaric tree ornaments adorn one stall. Very eye catching wee ornaments ~ evoking the origins of Santa's red and white attire and his trippy sky journeys!

Up, up and far away from any grounded reality

Ceramic homemade Fly Agaric for sale, to enhance any strong spruce tree branch

As a lot of us know, many historians and ethnomycologists believe that the origins of Santa Claus may lie not with Coca-Cola or even Saint Nicholas, but with the traditions of Arctic shamans who used the red-and-white Amanita muscaria mushroom in winter solstice rituals. Among communities such as the Koryaks of Siberia, shamans gathered these striking mushrooms from beneath pine and birch trees ~ considered sacred “trees of life”, then dried them, sometimes hanging them in stockings over the fire.

Legend in his own realm

After consuming the mushroom directly or through reindeer urine, shamans entered vivid hallucinogenic states, singing, speaking with spirits, and “flying” to the North Star to gain wisdom for their people. My thinking is... If squirrels and reindeer can eat them without dying, then so can we. I know one lady in the UK who does exactly that and without a worry or ailment in the world. The benefits far outweigh the press scare-mongering and the unchecked oppression of a very helpful 'shroom. 🍄 🍄 🍄 #fly_agaric #amanita_muscaria #health #wisdom #santaclaus #flyingreindeer #sleigh

Many peeps don't think it's safe, and this is why...

Why we Got it Wrong - Fly Agaric 101: The Magical Mushroom (Amanita Muscaria)

These psychedelic visions, the reindeer connection, and even the shamans’ red-and-white clothing may have influenced the image of Santa as we know him. The yurts of the region often had snow blocking the door, so shamans would enter through the roof — not unlike Santa coming down a chimney. Over centuries, these shamanic traditions blended with Norse and Germanic mythology and later with the Christian figure of Saint Nicholas. By the 20th century, Coca-Cola's advertising helped finalise the modern Santa image. Yet, the spirit of the solstice mushroom lives on in Christmas colours, decorations, and the folklore woven into festive traditions today.

Here's my very tame red and white marvel from the Christmas Market - a pot of Rosehip jam, which, (dependent on sugar content) is quite good for you too.

Rosehip jam, loaded with Vitamin C and antioxidants. Great for boosting immunity, reducing inflammation in joints, and supporting skin health

A tantalising choice of delicious fresh produce, cheese, jams and meats. (Taster bits available)

Cheese lovers Alm Blütenkäse with alpine flowers 𖤣.𖥧.𖡼.⚘

Also soaps, lots of French soaps and at excellent prices, circa. €2.5 ~ For sure they would be double the price in the UK and US.

Many people have turned to using pump soaps only since 2020, which may be why the prices for beautifully fragranced French soap bars aren't too steep here. <Happy grin>

From the toy stall, and a bargain for only €13 ♔ ♕ ♗ ♘ ♙ ♖ ♚ ♛ ♝ ♞

A slice of this delight!

My breakfast today! Dried pears, figs, dates, mix of berries and raisins with wintery spices, phenomenal with (cheese and) coffee. Think it's called Kletzenbrot ~ "pear bread"

The obligatory marzipan-laced Stollen cake supper for my son when he arrives from Spain later today, my other son is currently in New Zealand

Supporting small producers and craftspeople matters increasingly because it keeps traditional skills and cultural heritage alive, strengthens local economies, and ensures that the money you spend goes directly to the hands that made the product. Instead of buying something mass-produced and forgettable, you take home an object with a story, a maker, and a sense of place. At markets like Santa Croce, backing artisans means preserving the spirit of Florence itself. An enchanting city steeped on Renaissance history and built on human skill, creativity and meaningful craft.

Cute little houses the size of mushrooms in all colours

Live music, choirs and flag-waving performances as well as a Santa's Grotto and plenty of creative workshops for children.

Visiting St Nicholas in the market grotto, with wrapped Christmas gift in hand when finished

Opening times are from 10:00 until 22:00 hrs everyday of the week, and sometimes stays open later until 11:00. Entry is free and the spirits of Christmas past, present and future are there to welcome and keep an eye on you.

Don't give a reindeer's R's about ghosts or ghouls... There's nothing stopping us from heading to the Mercatino di Natale, besides, this plastic reindeer has yet to find a mushroom and get off the ground 🦌彡

Florence’s Renaissance scholars would have known about psychoactive mushrooms from classical texts and maybe the church once tried to suppress solstice mushroom rites, but the symbolism still survived in decorations. Italy being the centre of Hermetic philosophy, alchemical experiments, forbidden books and esoteric academies, which could imply that the secrets of altered states and spiritual travel were once discussed behind the cloisters, long before Christmas markets stood there. BTW The market stall staff often work 17 hours a day everyday for 3 months and then take 3 months off, streuth, the least we can do is buy a little something from them.

Modern tourists think they’re buying cute ornaments. But to ancient shamans, that little red cap meant flight into the spirit world. Speaking of which: -

Americano de Medici ~ recommended winter warmer, though served chilled

Classic Americano

• Campari: 1 oz (30 ml)

• Sweet Vermouth: 1 oz (30 ml)

• Soda Water: To taste

• Garnish: Orange slice and lemon peel

• Ice: Fill a glass with ice 

  
  

At Santa Croce, you’re browsing gingerbread under the same marble walls that once heard Galileo condemned, and Michelangelo mourned. The Renaissance, the spirit world, and an Austrian/German bakery queue all exist together, and that’s Florence. All in a good day's or night's Christmas shopping.